Read Empresses of Seventh Avenue by Nancy MacDonell Summary

Table of Contents

Empresses of Seventh Avenue: How American Fashion Triumphed in World War II

In her captivating new book, Empresses of Seventh Avenue: World War II, New York City, and the Birth of American Fashion, Nancy MacDonell chronicles the untold story of how a group of extraordinary women revolutionized the fashion industry during one of the most tumultuous periods in history. As the Nazi invasion of France cut off the world from Paris, the traditional center of haute couture, these visionary designers, retailers, editors, and photographers seized the opportunity to create a distinctly American style that would forever change the face of global fashion.

Summary

When the Nazis invaded France in 1940, the American fashion industry, centered on Seventh Avenue in Manhattan, found itself at a crossroads. For decades, the U.S. had looked to Paris for inspiration, often resorting to blatant copying to keep up with the latest trends. But with the French capital cut off from the rest of the world, a small group of women in New York decided to chart a new course.

Defying the naysayers who claimed American fashion could never compete with the elegance of Paris, these trailblazers set out to create a style that was perfectly suited to the American way of life: sophisticated, modern, comfortable, and affordable. Drawing on their own ingenuity and the resources of the bustling city around them, they turned out clothes that were a far cry from the formal, restrictive garments that had dominated the market.

By the end of the war, “the American Look” had been firmly established, a fresh, easy elegance that combined function with style. But none of it would have happened without the influence and determination of the women at the heart of the story, including designers like Elizabeth Hawes and Claire McCardell, fashion editors like Edna Woolman Chase and Diana Vreeland, and retail pioneers like Dorothy Shaver of Lord & Taylor.

Main Characters

Elizabeth Hawes: A pioneering designer who championed comfort and practicality in fashion, Hawes famously declared in 1938 that “Fashion is spinach.”
Claire McCardell: Known as the “mother of the American Look,” McCardell revolutionized women’s fashion with her innovative use of denim, separates, and ballet flats.
Edna Woolman Chase: The legendary editor-in-chief of Vogue, Chase played a crucial role in shaping the aesthetic of American fashion.
Diana Vreeland: A larger-than-life figure who served as fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar and editor-in-chief of Vogue, Vreeland had a profound influence on the industry.
Dorothy Shaver: The president of Lord & Taylor and a master marketer, Shaver helped bring the American Look to the masses through her innovative retail strategies.

Key Events and Plots

The Nazi Invasion of France: The story begins with the Nazi invasion of France in 1940, which cut off the world from Paris and forced the American fashion industry to look inward for inspiration.
The Rise of American Design: As Paris-based designers fled the country or were forced to cater to the wives of Nazi officers, their American counterparts seized the opportunity to create a new aesthetic that was uniquely their own.
The Birth of the American Look: Through the efforts of designers like Hawes and McCardell, the American Look emerged as a fresh, modern style that prioritized comfort and practicality over the formality of French haute couture.
The Role of Fashion Editors: Editors like Chase and Vreeland played a crucial role in shaping the aesthetic of American fashion, using their platforms to champion the work of American designers and promote the American Look to the world.
The Impact of Retail: Retailers like Shaver helped bring the American Look to the masses through innovative marketing strategies and a focus on affordable, ready-to-wear fashion.

Suspense and Conclusion

While Empresses of Seventh Avenue is not a work of fiction, MacDonell’s engaging writing style and meticulous research create a sense of suspense and drama that keeps readers engaged throughout the narrative. The author skillfully weaves together the stories of her main characters, building towards a climactic moment when the American Look emerges as a force to be reckoned with on the global stage.

In the conclusion, MacDonell emphasizes the lasting impact of the women at the heart of her story. Today, American designers are some of the biggest names in fashion, with an industry worth nearly $500 billion. But none of this would have been possible without the vision and determination of the “empresses of Seventh Avenue,” who refused to be defined by the constraints of French fashion and instead created a style that was uniquely their own.

As the fashion world continues to evolve, the story of these women serves as a testament to the power of creativity, innovation, and perseverance. Empresses of Seventh Avenue is not just a history of fashion, but a celebration of the women who dared to challenge the status quo and forever changed the way we think about style.